Exfoliation
Exfoliation is one of the most misunderstood pillars of skincare. Our skin naturally sheds every 28-40 days, slowing down as we age.
When we are going through puberty, the sebaceous (oil glands) are often over producing sebum (oil), and the skin is not shedding fast enough to keep up. This leads to uneven texture, clogged pores and breakouts.
When we are older, the lack of cellular regeneration causes the structure of our skin to deteriorate from the inside out. This leads to the break down of collagen and elastin— the proteins that keep our skin firm and elastic, ultimately resulting in premature aging.
The bright side is this is an easy fix. Incorporating an exfoliant 1-3xs a week manually speeds this process up. Through exfoliation pores are clearer, and the skin becomes less congested. The skin becomes softer, smoother and more radiant. Your products have better absorption, and the boost in cellular turnover reduces fine lines and pigmentation.
There are two types of exfoliation: chemical and physical, and they both serve a purpose.
Physical (Mechanical) Exfoliation:
The most familiar type, and involves manually removing dead skin through friction. This can be done with scrubs, cleansing brushes/cloths/sponges, microdermabrasion, microneedling and laser.
Chemical Exfoliation:
The most controlled type, this is when the ingredients do the work for you, dissolving the tissue and glue-like bonds that cause dead skin cells to stick together. This can be done with chemical peels or enzymes, exfoliating masks and targeted products.
Physical is typically better for skin texture, pore size and scarring concerns. It can also be one of the most effective treatments for brightening surface discoloration (hyperpigmentation).
Chemical can be more gentle and targeted, or more intense and corrective. Lower strength liquid exfoliants are meant to be used 1-3xs a week as an at home treatment. Exfoliating serums, like retinols, are meant to be used multiple times a week to correct a concern like hyperpigmentation or acne. Strong chemical exfoliants are your professional peels/masks meant to be done by a trained provider on a monthly basis, or as needed for treatment results.
Regardless of which type you choose, if it’s for home usage, gentle is always best and never use strong acids or active treatments without professional guidance.
Everyone’s skin is structured differently in terms of epidermal/dermal thickness, melanin formation/response, fibrotic response (scar tissue formation), and sensitivity or reactivity levels. All of these are deciding factors in your treatment plan, and in finding the perfect exfoliant for you. It is easy to over-treat, so remember to find an experienced provider who understands your skin and has your best interest at heart.
